Eat This, Food

Three seasonal recipes from Millie’s Lounge

The best British food is simple, seasonal and satisfying. Head chef Jason Loy shares some recipes from the new all-day brasserie in The Ned

A collaboration between Soho House and Sydell Group, The Ned is a hotel, collection of restaurants, and social and fitness club in the heart of the City of London. The building – which was formerly the headquarters of Midland Bank – oozes all the confidence and glamour that the original architect, Sir Edwin ‘Ned’ Lutyens, intended in the 1920s. For example, the grand banking hall on the ground floor has been restored to its glowing heyday. Eight restaurants, seven of which are new concepts for Soho House, can be found here.

Jason Loy – aka Tank – is the new head chef at Millie’s Lounge: The Ned’s lively British brasserie, open 24 hours a day. “Millie’s is about focusing on the classics, but also modernising some old-school recipes,” Tank explains. “The big thing is seasonality. We’ll serve lamb in spring and hearty pies in winter, always creating delicious dishes with British ingredients.”

The name is a nod to St Mildred’s Church, which once occupied The Ned’s site. This appreciation of heritage is also reflected in the restaurant’s best-of-British dishes (see recipes for three of them below).

“From the chef’s point of view, you’ve really got to love every plate,” adds Tank. “Most important is making customers happy. It’ll be the defining moment of my career if we get that right.”

Grilled salmon salad with dill yoghurt

1 whole side of salmon
Washed land cress
Washed watercress
1 purple
1 lemonFresh horseradish
1 round radish, quartered
Simple lemon vinaigrette

For the dill yoghurt
1kg of natural yoghurt
1 bunch of chopped dill
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

Mix all the ingredients for the dill yoghurt together and taste for seasoning. Season the salmon side, then grate some of the lemon zest and drizzle some of the juice over it. Chargrill the salmon briefly on a very hot grill, and then cook until pink (around 8-12 minutes) in a 180OC oven. Chill the cooked fish. Once cool, dress the salmon and other salad ingredients with the lemon vinaigrette. Cover the bottom of the plate with dill yoghurt, place the salad on top and finish with freshly grated lemon zest and horseradish.

Rack of lamb with a gremolata crust

1 whole rack of lamb
For the gremolata crust
300g panko breadcrumbs
250g melted butter
100g chopped parsley
5 cloves of finely chopped garlic
The zest and juice of 2 lemons
Salt and pepper to taste

For the black garlic and Dijon rub
150g black garlic
50g Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper

Combine all the ingredients to make the gremolata crust. Blend the black garlic, Dijon mustard and salt and pepper until smooth. Seal the lamb in a hot pan and roast in the oven at 180OC until the meat reaches 45OC (use a probe or meat thermometer). Remove the lamb and allow to rest. Smear the rub all over the meat and coat with the gremolata crust. Put back in the oven for a further 5-10 minutes to toast the crust. Serve with a little lamb jus, blanched runner beans and parsley cress.

Dorset crab mayonnaise

Dorset cock crab (1 crab serves 2 people)
Court bouillon (enough
to cover the crabs)

For the mayonnaise (makes enough for 6 servings)
6 large egg yolks
20g of English mustard
80g of Dijon mustard
20ml of white wine vinegar
900ml of vegetable oil
3ml of lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

To make the mayonnaise, whisk the egg yolks and mustards in a bowl thoroughly, then incorporate half the white wine vinegar and slowly add the vegetable oil until thick. Add the rest of the vinegar towards the end and adjust with water if necessary. Season to taste and add lemon juice to finish.

To cook the crab, bring the court bouillon to the boil (find Tank’s recipe for this classic poaching liquor at for at least 20 mins to ensure the flavour has developed, then add the whole crab. For every 500 grams of crab you need six minutes of cooking time. Once cooked, place the crab immediately in an ice bath to refresh and to stop the cooking process. Leave to cool. To serve, split a crab in half and clean away any impurities. Crack the claws and serve with the mayonnaise, some watercress leaves
and half a lemon.

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